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Heart Boulder -
Road Side
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1. The Heart - V0-
Start standing in corner. Using all holds, stem up several moves and then climb slab to top of boulder.
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2. Wishful Thinking - V1 *
Same as for The Heart, except big jug is OFF ROUTE.
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3. Silent Rage - V8
Start standing (perhaps on several pads) below the slab to the left of The Heart. Strain to reach non-existant starting holds and then climb slab to the top. HARD!
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The Heart -
Swamp Side
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4. Heart of Glass - V4 ***
Start standing on swamp side of prominent prow. Sidepull a good crimp with your left hand and reach a high right slopey pinch with your right. Place your feet on small slick holds, pull on and then climb up to top slapping your right hand up the slopey arete as you go.
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5. Sit to Heart of Glass - V8 ***
Start sitting under and ever so slightly right of prow. With left hand on good crimper, right on good sloper, and left foot on small hold, pull on, slap right hand up to better sloper pinch, throw left hand out to crimp rail, heel hook right foot move left foot up and then finish as for the stand start.
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6. The Scoop - V6 *
Start standing to the left of Heart of Glass and just right of tree. With good crimps for both hands, pull on and climb up scoop in face. Take care not to land on tree roots if you fall off the problem.
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7. Shattered, V9 *
Start sitting/squatting below the scoop with hands on two small sharp crimps. For the first move toe down with left foot on small hold, then cross your left hand over to the starting crimp for The Scoop. From there climb into the beginning of Heart of Glass and then finish up that problem.
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The Heart
Back Side
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8. The Single Blade - V4
Start sitting at base of crack on back side of boulder. Climb face up and right. SHARP!
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9. Heart Crack - V0
Climb the obvious left-leaning crack on the back side of the boulder.
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10. Chris' Traverse - V4
Traverse back side of boulder from left to right staying low and using small holds. Finish on Heart Crack or The Single Blade (V6).
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